Add an Exposed Zipper

Start by unpicking or trimming off the tag.

This blouse has an elastic neckline, so I’ll need to tack it down so it will still have stretch once it’s cut. If your shirt has an elastic neckline, zig-zag stitch on either side of the center point on the back of the shirt to secure the elastic. No elastic? Skip to step 3!

Next cut a piece of interfacing that is slightly narrower than the zipper tape. Make it the same length as the metal teeth portion of your zipper.

Find the center point on the back of your garment and mark with a pin. Iron the interfacing to the OUTSIDE of the shirt, in the center of the back.

Cut the strip of interfacing down the center. Fold back each side of the interfacing and hem. (You are sewing on the outside of the shirt.)

Now fold the bottom edges of the zipper tape to the back. Hem.

We are still working on the outside of the shirt. Align the top stops of the zipper by the neckline of the shirt. Fold back the excess zipper tape to the inside of the shirt and pin.

Turn the shirt inside out. Align the hemmed edges of the cut shirt with the edge of the zipper teeth and pin. Pin the bottom edge of the tape as well.

Start by straight-stitching the top of the tape horizontally to secure it to the neckline.

Then sew just inside the outer edge of the zipper tape to secure it to the fabric. (Because we are sewing on the outer edge of the tape instead of next to the zipper teeth, there’s really no need to switch to your zipper foot. If at any point the zipper pull gets in the way, try partially unzipping the zipper to give yourself more room.)

Finally, sew horizontally along the bottom of the zipper tape to secure.

That’s it! You now have a super trendy exposed zipper. You can do this on knit fabric as well; the interfacing helps to prevent stretching. I added an exposed zipper to a basic $4 H&M tee.